Proper Care and Storage Recommendations For Your Airstream Travel Trailer

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“USE/ STORE” switch or “ON/ OFF” switch must be in “USE/ON” position when trailer is plugged into 110-volt power (city power) to charge the coach batteries.

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“INVERTER” button is only used when NOT plugged in to 110-volt power (to use outlets inside and outside trailer). This will drain batteries very quickly because it is inverting 12-volt power to 110-volt power to run items such as microwaves, coffee maker, hairdryer, etc. Turn off any system not in use to retain battery power.

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Batteries (lead acid batteries only) which have two caps atop each battery, need to be checked for fluid levels every 30 days. With a lot of use, the fluid will drop in the cells thereby “boiling” the battery while attempting to charge. This is a regular maintenance issue associated with automobile batteries as well. Simply remove the caps and verify fluid is above lead cells in each port. If fluid is needed, add distilled water only!

DO NOT OVERFILL!  The acid in batteries is toxic and will cause a chemical burn or worse when in contact with the skin.

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If the battery voltage level drops below 8-volts it can and will damage battery life. It must be regularly maintained to keep voltage at an optimum.

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Plugging the trailer into a 110-volt power for 4-6 hours prior to towing will allow enough time to bring the reefer to desired temperature. This will let you know it is operating correctly and cut down on liquid propane (LPG) use.

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The equalizer hitch arms (or stabilizer bars) can be easily operated and placed into position, after locking hitch to the vehicle ball. Lock hitch onto the ball and raise trailer and tow vehicle using electric jack (or hand crank the jack) to a height which allows movement of the equalizer arms into brackets attached to the trailer. After the arms are in position, retract trailer tongue jack to tow position and complete attachment of breakaway, tow chains and seven-way cord to the tow vehicle.

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Always perform a “pre-flight” check of the trailer prior to towing or leaving it parked anywhere. This will greatly lessen the possibility of damage from not storing/closing or retracting of stabilizer jacks, awnings, windows, tongue jack, power plug- in, city water and attached hoses.

When leaving the trailer for more than a few minutes unattended, retract the awnings to the “stowed” position. Any sudden increase in air movement is a leading cause of costly damages to awnings and the trailer panels attached to or near them.

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Always keep in mind the trailer endures the equivalent of a 4.0 Richter scale earthquake while being towed. This includes all items stored in the trailer whilst being towed. 

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Before towing, verify all fan lids are closed completely. Also, when opening the door, hold tightly to the handle as this will avoid a sudden gust of wind from slamming the door into the “Open or Latched” position. If the door is allowed to slam open, it can damage and distort the shape of the door and its ability to be weather tight, as well as possibly damaging body panels.

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Check the tire pressure and tread of the tire when stopping to refuel the tow vehicle. The PSI range is labeled on the tires and can be easily found. Blowouts can cause a great deal of damage to multiple trailer systems.

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To prolong the life of all cabinet doors and the exterior and interior latches, use care when closing or latching. These parts on trailers endure a lot of pressure/stress through use and during travel.  

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When using the water pump, make sure that it doesn’t run dry. This will lengthen its life.

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ALWAYS winterize the trailer before the outdoor temperature drops to 35 degrees for one 24-hour period. When water freezes in the trailer, the plastic or pex water lines (pumps, tanks, faucets, toilets) will cause costly damage to the valves and water heaters.

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During the months of use or storage for longer than two weeks, be sure to empty the water heater of fluid. Any lengthy period of time storing water in the tank of water heater can create a sulfurous smell. Once this happens, this can be very difficult to correct or eradicate. If this does occur, often the water heater will need to be replaced to be rid of the sulfur smell. Knowing where all the low point drains are located is a good idea.